Draping a Civil War Fichu
Because I could not find any patterns for a fichu that I liked I decided to drape one based off of some pictures I had found in old books that I borrowed from the library.
I found something exactly like I wanted during my search-except for the seam down center back. I can just eliminate this by cutting on the fold so its no problem but it saves me from matching up the plaids.I wanted to make the waist adjustable so it will have ties that will tuck into the skirt waistband and it will also be reversible because the pattern is so simple.
So I drew out my diagram and then drew the shapes of the pieces I would need to make. I did it in paper to see if I liked the lines and then I set out to drape.
I used a size 16 dress form because it needs to have the same bust measurement as I do-the waist won’t be an issue thanks to the ribbons. I cut, blocked and pressed my muslin, pulled and drew in my center front and back (vertical/straight) grainlines, as well as the bust and shoulder (horizontal/cross) grainlines for the front and back respectively. Then I draped using style tape where I wanted the seams to be and ended up with my pattern pieces.
They have 1/2″ seam allowance all around that will be clipped afterwards so there is minimal bulk. It was a bit short so I will be adding 2 1/2″ to the bottom-2″to lengthen and 1/2″to keep the seam allowance.
The front side will be the same plaid as the skirt and the reverse will be a maroon cotton lawn. The ties on the side will be a plain maroon ribbon and it will have the same cotton crochet trim as well as oatmeal piping in the seams for contrast.
I have the fabric ordered so as soon as it arrives I will sew this up in no time at all.