This post is going to cover the finishing of the bodice.
I had left off with the back done so I flatlined the front pieces of the bodice with the same white denim.
Then I went to work on the darts. There were 4 darts in total-2 on each front piece. I tailor tacked the darts, thread traced them, pinned, hand bastedand finally sewed the darts.
I was meticulous with this because I wanted the plaid to line up. The horizontal plaid matches up but the vertical one dosen’t because the dart comes throught at an angle.
After I had all 4 darts done I moved onto the side seams. Those were just pinned and stitched-It was easy matching the lines because the seam was relatievly straight.
I waited to do the shoulder seam because I wanted to put the boning in while the bodice was still flat.
I have a roll of 1/4″ spring steel (white) boning that I cut as needed. For this I use tin snips, then I file them round and then I tip them with Plastidip so that nothing is poking.
I cut the bones for the front darts, side darts, and the side seams-for the back I used Spiral Steel because it curves around the seams nicely. All of the bones were stitched into casings made from cranberry cotton. I just made bias tape amd used a zipper foot to stitch them in.
The bones were then whipstitched in by hand to the seam allowances and on top of the dart takeups.
Now that I had all of the bones in I was able to lay it flat and check everything before I sewed the shoulder seams.
I matched up the plaid on the diagnal at the shoulders and then basted the seams before I stitched them.
This was the end of the bodice so next up is the lining and finishing touches.